​True investment piece: Hermes Kelly bag

15th May 2023

​True investment piece: Hermes Kelly bag

A signature style from Hermès, the iconic Kelly bag launched in 1852. Inspired by the Haut à Courroiesbag (created for equestrians to store their saddles), it evolved into a Sac à Dépêches by the 1930s. Designed by Robert Dumas, the son-in-law of Hermès CEO Émile Hermès, the Kelly bag stepped into the spotlight in 1955 as a favorite of Princess Grace of Monaco. While filming “To Catch A Thief,” she carried the handbag strategically to conceal her pregnancy from the paparazzi. In honor of Princess Grace, Hermès officially renamed it “the Kelly bag” in 1977. Distinguished by its trapezoidal silhouette, the Kelly bag features a cutout flap, top handle, two triangular gussets and two side straps. Equipped with a detachable shoulder strap, it consists of 36 leather components and 700 stitches. Each edition takes up to 24 hours to complete by a single artisan.

The Kelly bag comes in two distinct styles: the Retourne and the Sellier. With internal stitching and a slouchy shape, the Retourne evokes a casual sensibility. Conversely, the Sellier is renowned for its structured silhouette and external stitching.

HERMES Kelly 25 Etoupe Togo Retourne Gold Hardware, Kelly 25 Chai Epsom Sellier Gold Hardware

Left: Retourne, Right: Sellier

In addition to Box Calf (the original leather, which is stiff yet smooth), the Kelly bag’s most in-demand leathers include: Chevre de Coromandel:(durable, lightweight, soft and smooth); Clemence (matte, flat-grained, slouchy and scratch resistant); Doblis Suede (soft with a smooth finish); Epsom(lightweight and embossed, it resists scratches & water); Fjord (featuring a flat, wide grain, it’s soft as well as scratch & water resistant); Swift (soft with a fine grain, and ideal for vibrant colors); and Togo (lightweight with a soft pebbled texture, it resists scratches & water). Hermès also crafts Kelly bags in exotic skins such as alligator, crocodile, lizard and ostrich.

Further distinguishing the Kelly bag are its myriad hardware options. Along with a front lock and key for the front flap, it includes four feet on the bottom and a front plaque with a turn lock detail to secure the straps. In addition, Kelly bags made prior to 2001 feature classic D-ring hardware. From 2001 onward, Hermes began implementing custom double D-ring designs (a D-ring divided in half) Gold and Rose gold plating, Palladium and Permabrass mostly constitute the finishes.

HERMES Kelly 25 Black Epsom Sellier Gold Hardware

While exceedingly rare, Hermès offered two editions of its micro (15cm) Kelly bags from 1984-1985 and 1991-1992. Crafted in Courchevel, Box, Lizard and Crocodile, the micro Kelly bags featured thin straps and miniscule hardware. By 2011, Hermès unveiled a new micro Kelly bag (also 15 cm). In tangent with Christophe Lemaire’s Candy Collection, the most recent version came in Swift or Epsom leather, along with a selection of Lizard styles. Whether or not the micro Kelly bags remain available remains a mystery, as Hermès avoids disclosing its history publicly.

Ranging from 15 to 50 cm (matching the width of its base), the Kelly bag comes in a variety of sizes. The 25 and 28 cm versions are best suited for daily use—large enough to transport essentials, yet small enough to double as a crossbody or evening bag. 




While “It bags” come and go, Hermès’ Kelly bags stand the test of time. Moreover, the handbag stands out as a rarity in the luxury handbag industry for its higher resale value than that of the primary market. And since each Kelly bag is essentially a limited edition with an intricate, artisanal approach, it’s revered as a work of art.


HERMES Kelly 25 Sakura Pink Swift Retourne Gold Hardware, Kelly 25 Black Epsom Sellier Gold Hardware

With a focus on exclusivity and limited runs, Hermès has implemented a “less is more” strategy to selling Kelly bags. Clients can wait for months or even years for a specific version. Special-order styles are also available for VIP clients; aside from the aforementioned exotic skins, they can acquire customized Kelly bags adorned with diamonds and precious metals.

In that sense, another way of purchasing an Hermès Kelly bag from a reputable resale platform such asReplica Handbag Online Store is not only more accessible, but increasingly popular. While saving time and effort, it’s the best way to find a specific handbag you’re looking for. Explore our curated collection of Hermes


HERMES Kelly 25 Rose Pourpre Epsom Sellier Palladium Hardware